A tiny island off the coast of Naples, Capri is a place of dreams that's entranced visitors since Roman times. And it's sure to get under your skin too. Here’s an insider guide to the island and how to maximize your time there whether you can only spend a day or if you can stay long.
Seen from the Naples ferry, Capri rises from the sea in two peaks, like an uneven, slanted letter "M." The lower, eastern side of the island holds most of the main sights—including, at its highest point, Villa Jovis. From Marina Grande port (the embarkation point for visiting the Blue Grotto), the funicular zips visitors up in five minutes to charming, chichi Capri town (confusingly, the island and the main town have the same name); buses and (expensive) taxis ply the same route.
Anacapri, the island's second town, which serves the rural west, is divided from the rest of Capri by the forbidding rock wall of Monte Solaro, traversed by a single white-knuckle road. Be aware that the whole of Capri town and the eastern part of the island is a pedestrian area; porters on electric trolleys can be engaged to take one's luggage, but they are not licensed to carry passengers except the disabled or infirm. And don't even think of bringing a car over: nonresident traffic is banned, and you'd never find a parking space anyway.
Why Go to Capri?
- To live life on the edge at cliff-hanging hotels, bars, and Roman ruins
- Hang out at the A-list restaurants: stylish Aurora and the refreshingly unstuffy La Capannina.
- Picking up a pair of custom-made capri pants and feeling Jackie O.–glamourous
What To Skip: Midday in Capri Town, when tourists are swarming
What For: Beach + Island, Food + Wine, Luxury, Romantic, Shopping
When to Go: April, May, June, October. To avoid crowds, visit Capri in early or late summer, when the temperatures average around 70 degrees. Spring and fall are slightly cooler hovering just above 60 degrees. In April and early May the island is carpeted in spring flowers, while in October the water is still warm enough for a dip. Rates are lowest in the off-season, but be warned that most hotels, restaurants, and tourist facilities close down from November until Easter.
Related Destinations: Amalfi Coast
How to get to Capri
Naples-Capodichino is the nearest airport. Buses and taxis transport arriving visitors to the ferry docks for transfer to Capri. But high rollers with no time to spare can take a helicopter direct from the airport (flight time 20-minute).
Ferries and hydrofoils depart from Naples and Sorrento. Hydrofoils are faster and more frequent—and also more expensive. In summer, book Sunday departures to the mainland well in advance. Also of note: The last boats leave Capri around 9:30 p.m. daily in summer, so those attending evening events should plan an overnight stay. From Naples, Molo Beverello dock offers the most frequent crossings. From here, the hydrofoil ride takes 45 minutes. From Sorrento, the trip is shorter. Hydrofoils depart hourly from the dock near Piazza Tasso in Sorrento and take only 20 minutes.
Most of Capri's sights can be seen by boat, bus, or cable car, except for Villa Jovis, which is a 30-minute walk from the center of Capri village. Bus and funicular service is frequent and cheap (€2); taxis cost much more.
Capri has many beautiful car-free walking routes. The paths to Villa Jovis and the Arco Naturale are all well paved and maintained; walking shoes are advised on the steeper parts of Monte Solaro.
To get the best out of Capri you need to stay overnight as the dolce vita island is at its most romantic and laid-back in the evening when all the day-trippers have gone back to Naples or Sorrento. Be prepared to pay for the privilege: nothing on Capri comes cheap, least of all accommodations. If you can afford it, there are some exquisite rooms with a view to be had in luxe palaces and bijou boutique hotels; but there are one or two more modest options too. Most hotels in Capri town have porters down at the ferry dock in Marina Grande, who are responsible only for luggage transfer, leaving guests to take a taxi (expensive) or the funicular to a point just outside the famous clock tower and Piazzetta. If you're staying up in lofty Anacapri, the island's other main town, to the west, transport is a lot easier: most hotels have their own minibuses, which will meet you at the port if you let them know when you're arriving.
Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.
5- star Capri Palace Jumeirah, Anacapri
The narrow lane that leads to Villa San Michele may be a souvenir souk, but this five-star palace rises above the tack with effortless style and panache. Since 1960, Capri's most glamorous hotel has rolled out the red carpet for such island regulars as Valentino and Dino De Laurentiis, and it remains the hottest address for aristocrats, fashionistas, and divine divas (Julia Roberts, Mariah Carey, and Oprah). Tasteful objets and contemporary works of art from the owners' collection decorate the spacious bar and lounge areas, keeping things funky. One of the nice things about the place is the way even the classic doubles (the most basic category) feel luxurious. Most of the 79 rooms and suites share the same calm design scheme of white floors, cream bed linen, and gold tables and doors, though as you move up the scale they gain in size and character. The Beauty Farm luxury spa offers facials, massages, and serious health-oriented programs, including a Leg School and a Heart School, while the L'Olivo Two Michelin Stars restaurant features special healthy, low-carb menus alongside its standard mod-Med menu, backed up by more than 1,000 wine labels. This being Capri, where boats are as common as scooters, the hotel operates a fleet of motoryachts allowing guests to explore the scenery by sea. Open April through October. Book your stay.
Boutique Hotel Casa Mariantonia, Anacapri
Anacapri finally has a decent mid-price alternative to luxe perches like the Capri Palace, the Caesar Augustus, and Villa Le Scale. Casa Mariantonia's position is hardly spectacular—it's on the main pedestrianized shopping street, just across from La Rondinella restaurant—but for those open to the more rural feel of Capri's second town, it makes for a good base. The decor is a persuasive mix of Provençal and Caprese, with pretty ironwork bedsteads, bijou lamps, and a choice of Vietri floor and bathroom tiles that is a cut above the usual blue-and-yellow standard. All nine bedrooms have generous terraces with garden views; five (three classic doubles and two suites) look onto an ancient grove of orange and lemon trees to the side of the house. Closed November through March. Book your stay.
5-star Grand Hotel Quisisana, Capri Town
This 160-year-old grande dame on Capri's main shopping street is still ready for her close-up. Quisi is the It place for glitterati (everyone from Ernest Hemingway and Jean-Paul Sartre to Tom Cruise and Sting have slept here)—and paparazzi—and it has the advantage over its main rival, the Capri Palace Jumeirah, of being a short swan from La Piazzetta. Most of the hotel's 148 rooms have views of the sea and range from snug singles to spacious and deluxe doubles and suites. All are simply furnished with antiques (both real and repro), creamy white walls, and tiled floors; all bathrooms have tubs, some of them with hydromassage. There's a great attention to detail, from the fresh flowers in the lobby to the sumptuous silk and velvet curtains and upholstery. Amenities abound: There's a huge gym with state-of-the-art TV-equipped workout machines, tennis courts, and a serious beauty center, which also functions as a day spa for patrons staying elsewhere. The Quisi restaurant is a formal white-linen affair in the grand style, while at lunchtime the poolside Colombaia grill offers lighter meals and sushi. Best spot for star sightings is the Krug Lounge—an annex of the opulent, old-style bar. Even if you can't afford the rent, it's worth stopping for lunch or a limoncello by the pool that overlooks the Faraglioni rocks. The only downside to the place—apart from the prices—is the fact that it often fills up with conference delegates or jolly corporate incentive travelers in the off-season. Open April through October. Book your stay.
5-star Hotel Caesar Augustus, Anacapri
Everything's vertical at this landmark hotel towering 1,000 feet over the Bay of Naples. Renowned for its IMAX views, the family-run Caesar Augustus is a sweet and seductive getaway from the crush of Capri town—providing you have a head for heights. The 53 rooms (including 43 suites) are comfortably chic, with cushy chairs, big beds, and fragrant flowers. Pay extra for the sea-facing rooms with eye-popping vistas from the balconies. Four "special" suites include the one that Egypt's King Farouk used to block-book for the whole season—even though he only used it for a few weeks each year. Deepen that Caprese tan at the two-level infinity pool and sundeck or enjoy a glass of wine from the hotel's private cellar at the terrace bar or Terrazza di Lucullo restaurant, which specializes in flavorful Neapolitan cuisine. Open April through October. Book your stay.
5-star Hotel La Scalinatella, Capri Town
Perched along one of Capri's most beautiful walking paths, this romantic 30-room boutique run by the Morgano family (of Quisisana fame) feels like a private villa above the sea. (The name means "little stairway," referring to the hotel's terraced layout, with entrance and reception at the top). It's the perfect place for an intimate tryst, with large rooms well-screened from other guests. The rooms and suites are luxurious and modern, with alcove beds, sunny marine color schemes, and tiled bathrooms; all have panoramic terraces. Some have two baths and whirlpools. There are two swimming pools with a snack bar and shade trees. Open from Easter to the end of October. Book your stay.
4- star Hotel Luna, Capri Town
Location, location, and location is the main calling card of this lovely 52-room hotel, which sits just above the 14th-century Certosa monastery in its own extensive garden, with a bougainvillea-shaded pergola leading to the main building. It's close to town but far from the tourist crowds, and the views over the Faraglioni rocks from the terrace bar and the sea-facing rooms are superb. All of the accommodations are in a classic-contemporary style. For a few extra euros, guests can enjoy a balcony facing the lush gardens and water. The huge pool features a hydromassage area and underwater seating. If you can't face the short walk into town, the hotel's namesake restaurant, which makes the most of its outside terrace, serves up simple Bay of Naples specialties. Open from Easter through October. Book your stay.
5-star Hotel Punta Tragara, Capri Town
Churchill and Eisenhower stayed here before it opened in 1972 as a hotel. Today, guests pay through the nose for views from this apricot-pink villa hanging precariously over the Faraglioni rocks. The Le Corbusier–designed inn takes full advantage of its location, with picture windows in the lobby and balconies in all 43 rooms and suites. You can gaze down the cliff while lazing in two heated saltwater pools without ever leaving the water. Fireplaces, antiques, and marble adorn the public areas; plushly appointed guest rooms feature large bathrooms. The Bussola poolside restaurant is the sweetest spot on the island for watching sunsets. For fine dining, head to the hotel's upmarket Le Monzu' and Mamma, both One Michelin Stars restaurants. Open from mid-April to mid-October. Book your stay.
5-star J.K. Place Capri, Marina Grande
Inaugurated in April 2007, this island offshoot of one of Florence's most successful design hotels is a perfect place for sophisticated travelers to rest up for a few days. Don't be put off by the hotel's position, just above the main ferry port of Marina Grande: It's just far away enough from the hustle and bustle to seem a world unto itself—an impression that is encouraged by Florentine designer Michele Bonan's tasteful decor. Like its older sibling in Florence, J.K. Capri feels like the house of a refined and wealthy collector, but here the accent is more maritime, and a tad more feminine. Splashes of bright color enliven the eclectic sprinkling of antique furniture, while new pieces in sixties-retro style, statues and framed atelier drawings decorate the downstairs lounge, library, and breakfast room. Perched on a cliff above the sea, the hotel has a ringside view of the waves, and the sense of being on a yacht is helped along by the pale-wood floors and jauntily striped textiles in some rooms. Bathrooms are large (one even has room for a couple of striking lilac armchairs) and most have tubs. There's a huge decked outdoor swimming pool—heated, so you can also take a dip out of season—and a small ESPA spa and beauty center. Perhaps most impressive of all is the service—attentive and friendly without being overfamiliar, and without the superciliousness that mars so many Capri hotel experiences. Open Easter through October. Book your stay.
5-star Capri Tiberio Palace, Capri Town
The name doesn't exactly trip off the tongue, but this five-star luxury resort, which opened in 2008, is a worthwhile addition to Capri's high-end accommodations scene. Interiors combine rich fabrics, modern frescoes, antique prints, retro-contemporary furniture, and specially designed features such as ivy-leaf-appliquéd wall lights to create an ambience that is warm but also sharply stylish. The 61 rooms vary in size and aspect; the second- and third-floor superior doubles, with their arched balconies, are good mid-range options (book the prestige room category for sea views). The Spa Tiberio is arranged ancient Roman–style, with its frigidarium, tepidarium, and caldarium, while the in-out heated pool does just what it says, allowing guests to sit in half-immersed loungers enjoying the view through the floor-to-ceiling windows, or to swim out to the semicircular exterior section below the bar terrace. The Ristorante Terrazza Tiberio is proud to feature an indoor Kosher section, which is the only one being certified by the Orthodox Union south of Rome. Open April through October. Book your stay.
Boutique Hotel La Minerva, Capri Town
Value for money is not something one associates with Capri hotels—but pretty, spruce La Minerva definitely provides it. A family-run oasis on the panoramic lane that leads down from the swanky shopping street of via Camerelle, it offers stylish decor and gracious hospitality at a reasonable price. Walls and ceilings are whitewashed, and are floors tiled with bright and cheery polychrome majolica from Vietri sul Mare. Guests are quickly drawn to the sea views from the lobby terrace and most guest rooms. In true Caprese style, the 19 rooms are spread over five floors that slope gently toward the water. There's a rainy-day breakfast room, but most of the season guests can enjoy breakfast on their private balconies (some have suntanning beds) or on the hotel's sunny roof terrace. For a few euros more, book one of the larger deluxe units with large walk-in wardrobes, roomy tiled bathrooms, and whirlpool baths. Open March through October. Book your stay.
2-star La Tosca, Capri Town
It's very nearly Capri's cheapest hotel, and yet the service and the views at La Tosca are the equal of (and in some cases surpass) those on offer at some of the more swanky establishments. Standing just above the Certosa, not far from the Carthusia perfume factory, at the end of a floral walk, the square white hotel looks a little bunkerlike at first sight, but the impression soon passes. The 11 rooms are pretty basic but clean and light-filled: Angle for one of the five sea-facing rooms with terraces. Best of all, though, is the friendly service courtesy of owner Ettore Castelli, whose English is impeccable—he's married to an American and spends the winters in the United States. Touches like free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning in all rooms, and superfresh bread and brioches at breakfast (served on a terrace with views across to the Faraglioni) make up for the sometimes spartan feel of the accommodations. But there's something so likable about the place, such a breezy seaside charm, that only the hopelessly pampered are likely to complain. Closed November through March. Book your stay.
4-star Boutique Hotel Villa Brunella, Capri Town
Capresians have a knack for engineering gorgeous cliffside villas, and this 20-room jewel is no exception. Built as ten floors on a narrow lot that overlooks the bay, Villa Brunella requires a Stairmaster-like effort to reach guest rooms and the pool. But the hospitality of the Ruggiero family, who've run this charming inn since 1963 with great flair and friendliness, makes it worth the sweat. Rooms come in different shapes and sizes, with cool ceramic floors, potted plants, and sea-view balconies. At the bottom of all those steps, a swimming pool surrounded by stripey sun loungers overlooks the bay and a small bar. Romance is on tap at the candlelit terrace restaurant, which serves up excellent seafood and sweeping panoramas, and attracts a good slice of non-hotel customers. Open April through October. Book your stay.
Capri may not be on the cutting edge of the culinary scene, but the locals take eating very seriously. A few important contributions to the regional canon were developed here—the most famous being ravioli Caprese (filled with delicate ricotta cheese and herbs) and limoncello, the mandatory end-of-meal lemon liqueur. Dining is, above all, a social occasion here, and years of dealing with guests—both famous and not—have given the restaurateurs a talent for creating a convivial ambience. Restaurants have a laid-back vibe and a slow-paced one, too; you should allow at least two hours for a relaxed dinner.
Most eateries close in the off-season, between early November and Easter, and the majority suspend their weekly closing day in peak season—generally from late June to the first week of September. See also Capri Palace, Quisisana, and Villa Brunella for worthwhile hotel restaurants.
Please note: we have NO business connections with the places mentioned in this article and received no compensation or incentive to list them here. Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.
Aurora, Capri Town
This 130-year-old family-run restaurant is the place to be seen eating (or picking at a few lettuce leaves) on Capri. The owners, the D'Alessio family, greet major and minor celebrities like old friends, leaving nonentities like us to the waiters, but that's par for the course on Capri, and the service is, in fact, extremely professional. Aurora's nip and tuck has not carried through into the menu, which offers decent renditions of Caprese standards such as spaghetti alle vongole, grilled fish of various species, and specialty thin-crust pizzas. Closed November through April.
Buca di Bacco, Capri Town
Situated on the ruins of the ancient Greek walls of old-town Capri, this bright and cheery café just off the Piazzetta serves good grilled fish, pasta, and authentic high-rise Neapolitan pizzas. It also has an extensive wine list that won't break the bank. Closed Mondays and December.
Da Gelsomina Alla Migliera, Anacapri
Get away from the tourist crowds in this lovely family-run trattoria perched on the southern cliffs to the west of Monte Solaro. This is a place where Caprese come to tuck into dishes such as spaghetti with clams or the signature coniglio alla cacciatore (spicy stewed rabbit), along with white wine from the proprietors' own vineyards. Before or after your meal, you can take a dip in the huge pool; there are also six simple bedrooms for those who decide to make a night of it. Gelsomina is an appetite-building 20-minute walk along a pretty path from Anacapri; alternatively, ring ahead and you can get picked up from Piazza Caprile. Closed Tuesdays from October through April. Closed January and February.
Da Tonino, Capri Town
It's a little out of the way, just off the path that leads to the Arco Naturale, but this place is well worth scouting out for its well-priced gourmet spin on the cuisine of the Bay of Naples. Try top-notch dishes such as scialatielli (homemade pasta twists) in a clam-and-pumpkin sauce or pezzogna (a member of the bream family found only in these waters) either baked or poached all'acqua pazza (in a court bouillon of fresh tomatoes, white wine, onions, and parsley). Closed Wednesdays and mid-September through February.
Il Geranio, Capri
This secluded, panoramic restaurant near the Garden of Augustus it's best sampled when temperatures are warm enough to eat outside on one of the sea-view terraces. The menu takes the standard Capri seafood repertoire for an elegant spin in dishes such as rigatoni with swordfish or lobster thermidor. Service can be a little formal at times, but with that view, the quality food, and the candlelit ambience, you're unlikely to spend much time studying the waiters. Open daily 12:15 to 3 pm and 7:15 to 11:30 pm.
Il Riccio, Anacapri
Perched on a series of stone terraces near the Blue Grotto, this beach-bar restaurant, in its previous incarnation as Add'O Riccio, was the kind of rustic place where happiness was a plate of linguine alle vongole (with clams) and a deckchair in the sun. It still is, though after being taken over by the Capri Palace Hotel, Il Ricco ("the sea urchin") now does retro seaside chic in a more deliberate, interior-designed way—most winningly in the Stanza delle Tentazioni or "Temptation Room," an updated grandma's larder where Neapolitan pastries and desserts are laid out on a country-style table. The prices are a shade higher and the cuisine is a little more elaborate but still firmly anchored in traditional fresh Bay of Naples seafood. The upsides, aside from the top-notch food and views, are professional service and a well-honed wine list. All in all, this out-of-the way haven is a perfect place for an understated glitterati lunch or dinner, whether you arrive by yacht or plebeian bus (take the Grotta Azzurra route from Anacapri). Bring your swimsuit so you can descend to the sea for a dip, or simply work that tan on one of six sundecks. Open daily 12 to 2 pm, 8 to 11 pm.
This bustling place just below the Via Roma bus terminus in Capri Town is popular with tourists and locals—always a good sign. The large main dining room has views over Marina Grande and the sea; behind it is an equally spacious pergola-shaded terrace. But though they pack 'em in here, they don't skimp on quality: The ravioli caprese are homemade, filled with fluffy, tangy sheep's cheese and served with generous lashings of fresh tomato sauce, and the seafood—a delicious sauté of mussels and clams—comes from that morning's catch (in the rare cases where they use frozen ingredients, they say so on the menu). Service is friendly and efficient—you can be in and out of here in under an hour if you have a boat to catch. Open daily noon to 3:30 pm and 7:30 pm to midnight.
La Capannina, Capri Town
Although it's a magnet for the red-carpet crowd—which has included, at various times, Jackie O., Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Dustin Hoffman, and Julia Roberts—this tavern-style restaurant in town has managed to stay refreshingly unstuffy over the decades. The warm, professional welcome of the De Angelis family, which has owned the restaurant since 1951, is one of La Capannina's charms; another is the spot-on local cuisine, which includes specialties like ricotta-stuffed eggplant and ravioli Caprese. Desserts, such as torta caprese (a rich chocolate-and-almond sponge cake) and mulberry crêpes, are not to be missed; there's also a wine list with more than 200 labels. If you can, score a table on the veranda with hanging vines and ferns; it's romantically candlelit at night.
Pulalli, Capri Town
The Piazzetta's most secret winebar, Pulalli hides up a flight of steps next to the clock tower (the proximity is brought home every time the bell tolls the quarter-hour). To get there, head through the tiny arch to the right of the newsstand, and keep on up the stairs to the top. There are just a few tables on a small terrace overlooking the square—making it a great place to sip a glass of wine (try a Campanian white, such as Fiano or Falanghina) while observing the beau monde below. They also offer a light Caprese lunch and dinner menu, including lemon risotto or straccetti all'aceto con grana (beef strips braised in balsamic vinegar served with shavings of Grana Padano cheese). If the terrace is full—or the weather contrary—head inside for more views, this time over Monte Solaro and the Bay of Naples. Closed Tuesdays and December through February.
Where to Find The Best Shopping in Capri
Though it has its share of souvenir junk, Capri also offers some original shopping opportunities, if you know where to look. Most of the designer labels such as Prada and Fendi have outlets on Capri town's classic passeggiata, Via Vittorio Emanuele, and Via Camerelle. More interesting are the shops in narrow Via Le Botteghe and its continuation, Via Fuorlovado—the latter in particular has a cluster of fashion artisans that offer something different from the usual Capri pants and shell-decked sandals.
100% Capri, Capri Town
With other branches in Rome, Florence, Portofino, St. Tropez, Ibiza, Mykonos, Miami, Dubai, Qatar and St. Barths, this exclusive home-furnishings label operates out of two shops that face each other across the lane. Linen is the material of choice, woven into beautifully finished sheets, pillowcases, tablecloths, pajamas, and other cool bedroom, dining room, and bathroom accessories, plus a few shirts and blouses. In most of the home products, there are just three colors: white, khaki, and dark chocolate. Open May to the beginning of October.
Carthusia I Profumi di Capri, Capri Town
This tiny shop has been crafting fragrances from local herbs and flowers since 1948. The scents are unique and considered collector's items by fans; the most popular is a floral blend called, naturally, Fiori di Capri. They also sell soaps and scented candles. Open March to October.
Grazia and Marica Vozza, Capri Town
Creative jeweler Grazia Vozza and her twin sister, Marica, do amazing things with gold, semiprecious stones, amber, and freshwater pearls; their stylishly ethnic necklaces, earrings, bangles, and handbags are difficult to resist. New lines include some highly desirable Capri sandals with gemstone straps. Open May to November.
La Fiorente, Capri Town
If Vozza represents the contemporary, creative side of the Capri jewelry scene, La Fiorente holds the flame for tradition. Consisting of three separate outlets on busy Via Roma, the Alberino family's mini empire has grown from a single shop, opened in 1946, to become the point of reference for visitors who are partial to a bit of sparkle. The main store, at Number 4, specializes in dazzling old-fashioned luxury items in diamonds and precious stones. At Number 3, Don Alfonso offers a more accessible range with a predominance of pearl, coral and turquoise, while La Fiorente Coralli at Number 13 is a showpiece for the Bay of Naples's coral-working expertise, with intricately carved cameos and table centerpieces alongside the jewelry.
L'Arte del Sandalo Caprese, Anacapri
For over 60 years, Antonio Viva's sandals have graced the feet of celebrities, including Jackie O. and Sophia Loren. The store stocks ready-made varieties, but if you can wait a few weeks, Viva will design (and ship) a custom pair for you, too.
La Parisienne, Capri Town
Founded in 1906, La Parisienne is still the island's best source for Capri pants. You can buy copies of the originals worn by Audrey Hepburn (around €390) or order your own; a custom pairtakes a day to make.
Le Farella, Capri Town
The four Farella sisters were given a small machine loom by their mother in 1981. After working in a garden shed for a while, they opened this workshop-boutique where they make and sell their shawls, cardigans, sweaters, dresses, and bedcovers. Cashmere is a specialty, but the sisters also dye their own silk, linen, and cotton fabrics. Shawls and tunics are often decorated with delicate macramé borders. Closed January through March.
Limoncello di Capri, Capri Town
Invented almost a century ago by the Canale family, which still runs this business today, Capri's trademark liqueur made with local lemons can be sipped straight, mixed with vodka, or poured over ice cream (whichever you choose, it packs a wallop). A bottle makes a great souvenir or gift for friends back home.
Capri Trip Plans
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